Mick Fanning is young, but he’s had many experiences that most of us never will. How does it feel to lose a brother? Win a world title? Rip your hamstring muscle clean off the bone? Weave through a zippering Superbank barrel for 20 or 30 seconds or paddle over the ledge at places like Pipeline and Teahupo? Have scoliosis so bad you can’t get off the floor? Address the New South Wales state of origin team before a match, bowl to Matty Hayden, and have Dave Warner belt you for consecutive sixes?

Mick tells his life story candidly—in turns funny, sensitive, thoughtful, self-deprecating—while providing intimate insights into the personal lessons gained along the way—with practical tips on surfing technique, fitness, nutrition, board design, travel, competitive strategies, and mental clarity. Mick has overcome personal tragedy and career-threatening injury on his way to claiming the 2007 world surfing title. Universally acknowledged as the most focused and driven competitive surfer of his era, his approach to surfing, sports psychology, life, and relationships makes fascinating reading.

The essential principles of perseverance, hard work, and overcoming obstacles in pursuit of your dreams will inspire anyone.